Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Southward Bound Once More

Yes, I’m off again.

But before I go on, first please let me apologise for my online absence. Now that I’m off to the back of beyond to resume my adventure in the name of science, I plan to write much more frequently.

The first time I went to Antarctica most of my friends and family were really excited for me. I think they shared in the nervous anticipation of the unknown. Each step I took on my adventure was thrilling.

Now though, a lot of them seem quite puzzled. Why do I feel the need to go back, again and again? Haven’t I seen what I need to see, had my adventure, had enough of the cold and the snow?

I must admit it feels different now than it did when I was planning my first trip. And my motivations have changed. Now I want to go so badly not to find out about another world, another way of life, but because I know I love that way of life and the freedom it gives me. Here's a poem I wrote last time I was south that might help explain what I'm talking about:

ANTARCTICA


To be here, to come here

This place with its view

Means so little to so many

But so much to so few


Who’ve been here, who’ve seen it

Who’ve felt it and lived it

Who’ve kept it inside them

And can’t live without it


Who know its uniqueness

Its whiteness, its bleakness

Who crave its togetherness

And love its remoteness


Who live with the secret

That others can’t know

That this place is special

More than rocks, ice and snow


A world in its own right

That floods all the senses

Such that nothing else matters

Outside of its fences


And each day I wake up

And feel it take hold

There’s beauty in isolation

And there’s warmth in the cold


And I know I’m in love

As each time I depart

All that I think of

Whilst we are apart


Is the day I’ll be back

On this floating ice shelf

Or this snowy mountain

And I smile to myself


Certainly not a work of literary genius but it does talk of that feeling that keeps drawing me back to Antarctica, the feeling that there's nowhere I would rather be in the world!

Saturday, December 26, 2009

Christmas Eve: Mulled wine, mince pies and a spectacular view out across the bay...

Happy Christmas!

Launching the Rothera weather balloon on an icy Christmas Morning

Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Fabulous Antarctic Videos

OK, so I know I haven't posted any Antarctic action lately (that' s because I'm currently based in Cambridge, UK and as far I'm concerned, if there's no snow, it's not worth writing about) but Kirk Watson, one of the team down at Rothera, has been making some
WONDERFUL VIDEOS OF ANTARCTIC WINTER LIFE

As for me, I'm off back down south in just a few weeks time so watch this space for more photos, stories and snowy science from the start of November...

Saturday, March 14, 2009


A few photos from my recent travels up the Antarctic Peninsula to Tierra del Fuego and into Patagonia...stories to follow...




Saturday, February 07, 2009

Out and About

Last Sunday afternoon, as the sun broke through the clouds at last, I clambered up Stork Ridge and looked down at the glacier below.


Monday night at Rothera's very own ski resort...






Tuesday, December 16, 2008




And even wilder scenery...

From the window of the plane when I was lucky enough to venture further afield:


Happy Christmas and a very Merry New Year!


Sunday, December 07, 2008

A 'Dingle Day' at last!
When the sun finally comes along and lights up this place after days spent under a giant white blanket of cloud and snow, it feels like the curtain has been lifted on a world inconceivable only hours ago. Days like today are beyond description in English but in Antarctican we call them 'dingle days'. When the snow sparkles and each face of a mountain is glowing in a different shade. The sea shimmers and, around the base of icebergs, takes on an incredible turquoise colour that could never be mixed. When everywhere you look, you find yourself staring transfixed and unable to take it in. When the thin strands of high ice cloud appear as if they are trying to frame the view. When nothing quite looks real. When the scene in front of you is so breathtakingly beautiful that you can't think beyond the present moment.
I set off from the base, below, to marvel at the raw beauty that surrounds it...

A lonely penguin dwarfed by the icebergs that act as a safe haven for it to escape the lurking leopard seal.
A seal sunning itself on a lazy Sunday afternoon.
After a day out enjoying the stunning weather, including carving some turns on my board at the local ski resort - Vals, I prepared for a night spent weather watching. The recent bad weather has left us with a back logs of field parties to fly out so today 24 hour operations were called for. I'm duty met tonight and it suits me just fine as I can enjoy a few more shades of magic as the light slowly shifts and the clouds start to roll in. Soon the splendour will be hidden behind a veil once again so I'm happy to catch every moment.

I'll try and write a bit more about my job here soon.

Sunday, November 30, 2008

Underground, Overground...

Welcome to the one or two extra followers my blog seems to have aquired of late, hope you enjoy a glimpse of this slightly otherworldy corner of the earth.

After all those photos of the mindblowingly beautiful crevass just up the hill from Rothera, here's a photo of me slithering my way through said ice cavern:

Below you see me making the most of a sunny interval amidst what seemed like a neverending storm. The high winds that day were creating some excellent flying saucer like 'lenticular' clouds over the ridge behind the base. I skied out for a spot of wildlife watching around Rothera Point and bumped into (almost literally) a few cuddly Weddell seals and some Adelie penguins, waddling their way through life in what appears to be a charmingly oblivious fashion.

I'm currently featured on a women in science blog, have a look if you want to find out how I ended up here.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008

Easy Come, Easy Go

My first voyage to Antarctica involved 10 weeks on board a ship, crossing the equator then on southwards via various little known islands and eventually bashing through ice nall the way to the ice cliffs of mainland Antarctica. This time, I left the UK on Wednesday afternoon and touched down on the Antarctic Peninsula in time for lunch on Friday.

The photo above shows the Dash 7, the British Antarctic Survey's 'passenger jet' that brings people in and out of Rothera Research Station from late October to early March. It lands on wheels on a runway kept clear of snow and can even make it further south to land on blue ice runways. This morning the Dash 7 left Rothera bound for Punta Arenas in southern Chile. Amongst it's 14 or so passengers and crew was Matt Balmer, who's just finished 2 and a half years working as an electronics engineers down here without once leaving. When the plane returns tomorrow morning, it will bring the Dutch crown Prince and Princess, on a weekend trip south as part of their world tour monitoring the effects of global climate change.



Monday, November 03, 2008

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Where am I?

On my way south again!

Punta Arenas is a small city on the southern tip of Chile, that's where I'm staying at the moment whilst I wait for the weather to fly across the Drake passage to Rothera Research Station on the Antarctic Peninsula. As you can see from the map, I'm not going as far south as I was last year at Halley. In the rest of Antarctica the peninsula is known as the 'banana belt' as it's actually not that cold at all! Summer temperatures rarely drop far below zero and even in winter (winter temperatures have risen by almost 6 degrees Celcius over the past 50 years or so) it's often warm enough to safely lick metal. Is this the real Antarctic? Who cares...it has mountains a plenty and I've packed my snowboard...bring it on!

Friday, July 11, 2008

Pole to Pole
I've swapped penguins for polar bears this summer and am currently camping in the Arctic. I'm on an island called Spitsbergen, part of a group fo Norwegian islands called Svalbard, about 600 miles from the north pole. I'm a science leader for a group of budding young meteorologists on a BSES (British Schools Exploring Society) expedition.
You can see updates on the progress of the expedition over the coming month here, click on Svalbard summer '08.
Enjoy the summer!

Monday, March 31, 2008

Something to listen out for...

For those of you who might be interested, fellow metbabe Dave Evans and I will be on radio 4 tomorrow (Tuesday) at 9.30 in the morning.

The programme is called Team Spirit and it's all about team dynamics.

Anyway, if you miss it you can listen again on the BBC website.

Tuesday, March 25, 2008

Zebra crossing...
Possibly my favourite photo so far!
The lazy lions who kindly refrained from eating my tour guide as he jumped out of the truck right infront of them to rescue my sunglasses, fallen from my clumsy head. Cheers JoJo.
Pretty (and slightly scary) thunder cloud
Muchos giraffes
Above- Crazy Namibian rocks, Below- Crazy Namibian skies
Namibian Rock Art

Susie chimney head in Barcelona

Some building I quite liked


Me escaping a city, as usual


You may have noticed a change of scenery in some of these photos. Yes, I am now in the continent I call home and have met up with one or two friendly faces. Ieven made it out to the hills of Andorra for some gravity assisted snowboarding but I was far too excited to take any photos. After a few more days in Barcelona I´ll be off to Northern Norway to talk about ice and snow, then Austria to play with ice and snow, then finally home (I´ll be in Warkworth on the 13th April with photos of ice and snow a plenty). I´m thinking of meeting up in Newcastle/the Masons the last weekend of April and London in early May but I´ll keep you posted. Can´t wait to catch up over a pint!

Saturday, March 01, 2008

Namibia
A totally surreal, empty but amazingly beautiful country from what I've seen so far. In one week we've covered a lot of ground from swimming in the Orange River at the border to the adventure capital Swakopmund where I finally got to do some gravity assisted sandboarding.
Dead trees in the Namib desert. My god it was too hot for my poor Antarctic adapted body but it was stunning.
Below: Looking back up at the best dune running slope ever and all the people about to follow in my footprints...
Watching sunrise up Dune 45 in the Namib desert, a well deserved rest after a hard climb (well worth it for the run down)
Namibia's national tree: the quiver tree

Just before sunset at Fish River Canyon, the oldest canyon in the world and it certainly felt like the hottest too (although apparently it's 10 degrees hotter at the bottom!)